d. Stack the rope. Once the killer is anchored in position, he must stack the rope to ensure that it is free of twists and tangles that could hinder the management of the rope in the fuse. The rope should be stacked on the ground or on the rocky outcrop where it does not get stuck in cracks or nubbins when given to the climber. (1) When the leader has determined the new backup position and is ready to secure the trailer, the «new» backup copy indicates «BELAY ON». The second, now the climber, removes all remaining anchoring material/material and completes all final preparations. The coating maintains tension on the rope, unless otherwise stated, while the final preparations take place, as the removal of these remaining anchors can cause the rope to sag. When the second is ready, he can report «ESCALADE» as a courtesy, and the leader, again out of courtesy, can answer with «ESCALADE». There are also automatic safety devices on the market that allow a climber to climb alone in his climbing room. (6) Anchor attachments should also help to ensure that the force of a fall does not «rotate» the position attachment body. To do this, the climbing rope around the «guide hand side» of the body must lead to the anchors.
The stop fasteners are connected to the seat belt of the fastener (or Bowline-on-a-coil) on the guide side. Under the right conditions, assisted braking devices use a sudden load on the cable to actuate a name mechanism (called active or mechanically assisted braking devices) or to pull the safety carabiner into a crushing point (called passive or geometrically assisted braking devices) to prevent the cable from flowing through the safety device. The terms «self-locking» or «automatic lock» are not recommended, as it is recommended to always hold the hand of the brake on the rope[2], [3] there are conditions outside the correct braking function. For example, icy, muddy, worn or too thin a rope and insufficient training and experience. (4) Many manufactured seat belts have a pre-sewn strap buckle at the back. Although this loop is much stronger than gear loops, it is not suitable for a safety anchor. It is a quick attachment point to pull an extra rope. Although each fuse plate with one or two slots is often referred to as a seam plate, Fritz Sticht initially patented the design in 1970 with Hermann Huber for Salewa GmbH, which sold it as Salewa Sticht Bremse. b. Indirect Backup. An indirect fuse, which is most commonly used, uses a safety device attached to the harness of the shooter part.
This type of fuse provides dynamic shock or weight absorption by the fuser when the climber falls or weighs the rope, which reduces the direct force on the anchor and prevents a strong impact load on the anchor. The climber can choose from a variety of belay techniques. A method that works well in one situation may not be the best choice in another. The choice between body fuses and mechanical fuses depends largely on the equipment available, which makes the climber more comfortable and the load or drop force that the fuse may need to absorb. Below are some of the most used techniques that are best suited for military mountaineering. Statistically, the Grigri is the most popular mechanically supported brake safety device in terms of sales volume. [Citation needed] A Grigri, when used correctly, helps to brake the rope with a cam device that tightens the rope in case of a fall. Due to the braking mechanism, the modified safety techniques are widely used, although Petzl, the manufacturer of the device, allowed only certain techniques for the instruction of new fuses. Grigris would give a harder grip than a regular safety device because they allow little or no zipline during a fall. On the other hand, this is compensated by the fact that the person to be secured travels a shorter distance. This is an exclusive design by Petzl.
(2) Device for eight people. The rear device is a versatile device and, although designed as a recall device, it has largely established itself as an effective mechanical belay device (Figure 6-26). The advantage of any mechanical fuse is that the friction needed to stop a fall is applied to the rope through the device and not around the body of the fuse unit. The device itself provides rope control for pull-ups and downs and excellent friction to stop heavy falls. The main principle behind the rear device in fuse mode is the friction that develops on the rope when it reaches and exceeds the 90-degree angle between the rope entering the device and leaving the device. As a safety device, the eight-piece figure is suitable for safe climbing as well as lowering personnel and equipment on fixed rope systems. In military mountaineering, the main task of a rope climbing team is to «fix» a route with some sort of rope installation to support the movement of the unit`s less trained personnel. This task falls to the most experienced climbers in the unit, who usually work in groups of two or three people or in teams called storm climbing teams. Even if climbing is intended for another purpose, rope climbing should be performed when the terrain becomes difficult and exposed.
a) As a climbing safety device, a bay embedded in the climbing rope is guided through the «little eye» of the aircraft and attached to a lockable carabiner at the front of the seat belt of the safety guard. A small short safety rope of a small diameter is used to connect the «big eye» in Figure Eight to the locking carabiner to control the device. The guide`s hand is placed on the rope that leads to the climber. The management of the rope is carried out as with a body safety. The brake is applied by pulling the soft cord in the hand of the brake towards the body and blocking the rope between the device and the carabiner. c. Anchor the fuse. In order for a climbing device to be considered bomb resistant, the backup copy must be attached to a fixed anchor that can withstand the highest possible drop force. A solid natural anchor would be ideal, but more often than not, the fuser should place pitons or corners.
A single artificial placement should never be considered appropriate for anchoring a fuse (except on the ground). Several anchor points must be placed that can withstand both upward and downward movements. The basic rule is to place two anchors for downward pulling and one anchor for upward pulling as a MINIMUM. The following key points also apply to anchor fuses. b. Technology. The belay will be the same as in normal lead climbing and the rope will also be guided through the protection in the same way. The big difference is the upward movement of the rock. If the daisy chains, aids and Fifi hook are attached to the point of attachment of the harness rope as indicated above and temporarily attached to a gear loop or gear loop, the ascent continues as follows: b. Mechanical fuse. A mechanical fuse should be used whenever the head climber could suffer a serious fall.
The holding force of a safety device is far superior to any bodily safety under high loads. However, managing the strings in a mechanical fuse is more difficult to master and requires more practice. In most cases, basic bodily safety on a typical military road should be quite adequate, as the routes used in military operations should be the easiest to negotiate. A guide plate, also known as a self-locking safety device,[4] is a metal plate with an elongated slot through which the bay can pass, and then a carabiner is fixed so that when traction occurs from the climber, the carabiner is pulled to lock the device.